dessicant air dryer

[snagcreek]

Wondering if anyone is using any kind of desiccant air dryer. I have a motorguard filter right now and would like to get even dryer air if possible. Here is one that I am looking at and want to know if is worth spending my money on.
Thanks for any info
Snag Creek
This is the one that I am looking at
Power fist air dryer at princess auto
Part # 8055757

[I Lean]

I have one similar to that, purchased from Harbor Freight when they used to have them. I have a refrigerated air dryer also, but this desiccant tube right at the plasma table. Enough moisture gets through the first dryer that it still makes the desiccant turn clear. (my desiccant is blue when "new", and clear when saturated)

I keep two sets of desiccant...one in use, and one ready to swap in. When I take out the saturated stuff, I bake it in the oven to "recharge" it, then put it in a ziplock back for the next swap.

[Capstone]

just reminded me it's time to get some more desiccant. The swap idea is a good one.

As for what I did; it's totally DIY. just a 3' length of pipe with caps tapped and drilled with air connectors and some screen material to keep it all in. It seems to be working perfectly with no other inline filters.

[Doc Hollywood]

just reminded me it's time to get some more desiccant. The swap idea is a good one.

As for what I did; it's totally DIY. just a 3' length of pipe with caps tapped and drilled with air connectors and some screen material to keep it all in. It seems to be working perfectly with no other inline filters.

Hey, whats the consumables life you're getting with this set up?
Thanks for sharing your design!

[Capstone]

I haven't opened it up for a while to see how the beads are holding up since I put it to use, but I have been doing a lot more cutting lately, so this thread has prompted me to order 4 more quarts of desiccant which should arrive next week. I'll let you know once I'm ready to swap it out. What I will say is that of all the things that can go wrong with a CNC Plasma table, I haven't had air problems so far.

[TJS]

just reminded me it's time to get some more desiccant. The swap idea is a good one.

As for what I did; it's totally DIY. just a 3' length of pipe with caps tapped and drilled with air connectors and some screen material to keep it all in. It seems to be working perfectly with no other inline filters.

Phil,
Thanks for the pic. Is the air entering from the bottom and out from the top I assume. Also where do you get your dessicant pellets from.
T.J.

[Capstone]

Yes... the air-flow is bottom to top and I'm taking the air straight from the tank. I used to have other filters in place, but my air-flow was severely affected. I got the desiccant from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OU ... UTF8&psc=1. I just placed a second order.

[TJS]

Yes... the air-flow is bottom to top and I'm taking the air straight from the tank. I used to have other filters in place, but my air-flow was severely affected. I got the desiccant from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OU ... UTF8&psc=1. I just placed a second order.

Thanks for the link and the help. I am going to build one soon.
T.J.

[PlasmaSpider Store]

Here is a link to a high quality, filter/dryer assembly that is very popular and works very well http://www.plasmaspider.com/shop/dryer_sharpe6760.html With this installed close to your plasma and 20' or more from your compressor it will be all that you need.

Be sure that if you build your own that you filter the air after the desiccant. A screen will keep out the beads but the beads break down over time and smaller pieces and dust will be present. This could be a problem in the long term and could plug the inlet filter on your plasma cutter or worse.

[Capstone]

So the results of me inspecting my DIY desiccant filter are here:


Clearly, the beads have reached total saturation. I don't yet have the new beads, so I'll have to attempt to dry these out over the next couple of days in a backing pan lined with aluminum in my powder-coating oven. After seeing the rust at the bottom and water, I decided to buy a hi-flow 1/2" air filter from Harbor Freight to go in front of the desiccant filter. Let's hope it doesn't restrict the airflow.

[Doc Hollywood]

So the results of me inspecting my DIY desiccant filter are here:


Clearly, the beads have reached total saturation. I don't yet have the new beads, so I'll have to attempt to dry these out over the next couple of days in a backing pan lined with aluminum in my powder-coating oven. After seeing the rust at the bottom and water, I decided to buy a hi-flow 1/2" air filter from Harbor Freight to go in front of the desiccant filter. Let's hope it doesn't restrict the airflow.

Hey capstone,
How long did it take to get you desiccant to saturation? What region/ season did you most recently take that pic in? I assume summer will make for much wetter air....

[jimcolt]

Commercial dessicant air dryer systems are often designed to be self-regenerating. They usually have two dessicant containers and circuitry (air and electronics) that use one container at a time...and activate a heater...or low air flow on the one not being used to regenerate. These units also have an outlet filtration system designed to stop any fines from the dessicant beads from getting into your air system and ultimately affecting paint, tools, plasma etc. It is always recommended that the inlet air is precooled and run through a coalexcing filter with an auto-drain before entering the dessicant unit...this lessens the chance of saturating the dessicant quickly in high humidity cases.

The homebuilt units as shown in this thread certainly work, but clearly require some maintenance (moisture, rust, etc.) and could cause issue down the road if the output is not properly filtered.

I prefer the refrigerated method as I am a low maintenance kind of guy. Refrigerated dryers cool the air, which condenses moisture into larger droplets that can more easily be separated by a coalescing (centrifugal) filter with an auto drain. I bought my major brand air dryer on Craigslist for less than $100.

Regardless of the type of dryer used....an auto drain on the compressor is the best thing that can be done to ensure lower amounts of suspended moisture in the air leaving the compressor. Another simple addition to any air system before dessicant or refrigerant dryers....is a pre-cooler right at the outlet of the compressor. This can be a 20' length of copper pipe with a coalescing filter at the end. The pipe will allow a drop in temperature from the very hot air that leaves the compressor.....this condenses moisture and effectively removes some before your dessicant or refrigerated system does its job.

Jim Colt Hypertherm

[Brand X]

I use these guys for a tower.. Many place sell quality desiccants.

I enjoy not having one more thing plugged in.. If designed correct, very little maintenance on a dedicated system for your table.. Open a valve is about it, and then every six months check/add some more desiccants.I leave the lower tower valve open when I am done for the day.. Purge the air tank on the Compressor, and tower in morning, and good to go for the day.. Maybe twice if I am bead blasting during the day... Worked 16 years that way and got another 50 to go... I have Digital air gauge built into my Esab, so I can tell if there is a air problem on flow.. I also use this right after the Dryer just to keep anything out of my lines.. It goes straight to the plasma.. I do have copper line before all this stuff, and It's a great simple system, that works perfect for me.. Too small of a compressor causes more isuues with water then any one thing..


http://www.vanairsystems.com/products_d ... -lite.html

http://www.vanairsystems.com/stationary-dryers.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2716541178 ... =82&chn=ps