Electrical

Cut quality issues can be discussed here, most common issues have been discussed here and should help you.
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railmaker
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Electrical

Post by railmaker »

I have a hypertherm 1000 that I use on and off. It is not a full production machine although a fairly used hobby machine. Recently I have had it stop cutting and show the two warning lights on the front along with the green power light. It sometimes resets itself or sometimes I shut the machine off and back on. It may go for awhile and not do this then all of a sudden do it again. I have a large compressor supplying it with four dry desiccant filters, two at the compressor and two at the machine just before the little trap that comes on the machine. Do you think this is a board going bad or an air issue or something else? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thank, Scott Vickrey
Shane Warnick
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Re: Electrical

Post by Shane Warnick »

You ever take the cover off and blow out the inside of the powermax with compressed air? If not, you should. Good chance there is a ton of dust and crap in there, that could be contributing to your problem. Or not. For the effort and cost (or lack of) I would give it a go and see if it doesn't resolve the issue. Circuit boards themselves don't often have intermittent gremlins. You blow a resistor or pop a circuit it's gone. Now there is a possibility that some solder is coming loose somewhere, but I would think it would quit when it got hot, not the other way around. Just my 2 cents worth.

Shane
mdwalker
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Re: Electrical

Post by mdwalker »

railmaker wrote:I have a hypertherm 1000 that I use on and off. It is not a full production machine although a fairly used hobby machine. Recently I have had it stop cutting and show the two warning lights on the front along with the green power light. It sometimes resets itself or sometimes I shut the machine off and back on. It may go for awhile and not do this then all of a sudden do it again. I have a large compressor supplying it with four dry desiccant filters, two at the compressor and two at the machine just before the little trap that comes on the machine. Do you think this is a board going bad or an air issue or something else? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thank, Scott Vickrey


Be sure when you change out electrodes/nozzles that you don't over tighten the assembly. They should be just finger tight. Also be sure that the swirl ring, consumables, and the interior of the torch head assembly are clean allowing free movement of all parts. Next time it stops cutting and the lights come on lightly tap the torch head assembly or slightly loosen it and see if the lights go off.
Danny Walker
Walker Manufacturing
Tishomingo, Oklahoma USA
www.walkermfg.net
railmaker
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Re: Electrical

Post by railmaker »

I have blown it out every once in a while but I will be mindful of tightening the nozzle and I will change out the swirl ring make sure everything is clean. Thank you very much and will post the outcome.
jimcolt
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Re: Electrical

Post by jimcolt »

Best bet, as always is to write down the symptoms (which led's?, how do you resolve it?) and call Hypertherm tech service. To me it sounds like the torch PIP switch (parts in place sensor) that is easily replaceable. This switch senses that the consumables are properly installed in the torch for your safety and longer torch life.

If you are using aftermarket consumables (not made by Hypertherm) or have an extremely used retaining cap or are using your electrode an nozzle way beyond their expected practical life.....you could experience these issues. Often the best fix is to put everything new in the torch. Shield, retaining cap, nozzle, swirl ring, electrode, new torch oring....often the problem is solved.

Jim Colt Hypertherm
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