Different types of nozzles and what should I use?
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VERSIUS
- 1/2 Star Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:13 am
Different types of nozzles and what should I use?
I am trying to increase my knowledge here a bit on what I should be doing over what I have been doing and am wondering if there is a good thread here (I've looked and didn't find it) on the different types of nozzles. I see nozzles that are "piercing" and some that are not and I also have shields that allow me to put a cap on or not. I cut 16 gauge mild steel almost exclusively and I'm making smaller items (ie license plates, magnets, keychains, spinners, small to medium wall hangers) and I want to keep the speed that I have now (running at around 225ipm mostly), but I would really like to be able to get a bit more resolution (if that is the right term) or smaller kerf. I'm running an A60 torch with the 100 Machine head. Some fine details I can cut and some I simply can not seem to get to work (even when the distance between elements in Corel are the same and sheetcam doesn't show errors). Does anybody have a guide that shows what the recommended settings/nozzle type and amperage is for this setup and what I'm doing? I spent a long time trying all sorts of things, but my problem ended up being a bad ground (which is now fixed) and I have upgraded my compressor and put a 250 gallon and 3 gallon tanks inline for extra air (along with two air dryers and an additional filter). Corel took me months to get the hang of, but I'm finally able to get what I want out of it now. I built a control room to keep the dust away from the controllers and my computer am just trying to perfect my methods. I would really appreciate it if anyone has a link or would be willing to post the recommended baselines for this type of operation. I would be happy to pay a reasonable amount as well. If someone is close by Shawnee, OK... I'd pay and provide an authentic Mexican or Steak dinner (or both, lol). I just really want to get this setup a bit better. Thanks!
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jimcolt
- 5 Star Elite Contributing Member
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- Joined: Mon Jul 20, 2009 11:18 pm
- Location: North Carolina
Re: Different types of nozzles and what should I use?
For best quality on gauge materials, and to keep the speeds reasonable you will need the smallest amperage (30 amps) consumable set listed in the Thermal Dynamics operators manual. Be sure to follow the speeds and especially the height listed in the manual as well. Many do not pay enough attention to cut height...and most cut too high which prodices warpage, a wide kerf and poor edge quality. A good quality height control is absolutely essential for good results.
If you had a Hypertherm I could provide you the exact best performance...in fact it would come right from the operators manual. With T-D you may need to do some experimenting to get best results.
Jim Colt
If you had a Hypertherm I could provide you the exact best performance...in fact it would come right from the operators manual. With T-D you may need to do some experimenting to get best results.
Jim Colt
VERSIUS wrote:I am trying to increase my knowledge here a bit on what I should be doing over what I have been doing and am wondering if there is a good thread here (I've looked and didn't find it) on the different types of nozzles. I see nozzles that are "piercing" and some that are not and I also have shields that allow me to put a cap on or not. I cut 16 gauge mild steel almost exclusively and I'm making smaller items (ie license plates, magnets, keychains, spinners, small to medium wall hangers) and I want to keep the speed that I have now (running at around 225ipm mostly), but I would really like to be able to get a bit more resolution (if that is the right term) or smaller kerf. I'm running an A60 torch with the 100 Machine head. Some fine details I can cut and some I simply can not seem to get to work (even when the distance between elements in Corel are the same and sheetcam doesn't show errors). Does anybody have a guide that shows what the recommended settings/nozzle type and amperage is for this setup and what I'm doing? I spent a long time trying all sorts of things, but my problem ended up being a bad ground (which is now fixed) and I have upgraded my compressor and put a 250 gallon and 3 gallon tanks inline for extra air (along with two air dryers and an additional filter). Corel took me months to get the hang of, but I'm finally able to get what I want out of it now. I built a control room to keep the dust away from the controllers and my computer am just trying to perfect my methods. I would really appreciate it if anyone has a link or would be willing to post the recommended baselines for this type of operation. I would be happy to pay a reasonable amount as well. If someone is close by Shawnee, OK... I'd pay and provide an authentic Mexican or Steak dinner (or both, lol). I just really want to get this setup a bit better. Thanks!
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mlinehan
- 1.5 Star Member
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:48 am
Re: Different types of nozzles and what should I use?
I read your earlier post.
I get best results on 16 ga using 40 amps or less.
Use the cut charts in the Owner's Manual as a baseline. If you find you need to make adjustments, adjust speed. I prefer to use the shielded parts on thin metal. This will keep the tip from contacting the metal if it bows upward although an AVHC that functions well will take care of that issue also.
http://www.victortechnologies.com/Victo ... ibrary.php
A smaller tip gives you a smaller kerf. Kerf is approx 1.5 X the orifice size when using the proper cut parameters. Remember that the slower you cut, the more heat you will put into the plate. This is obvious when you cut 2 lines close together, say the point of a star. You go up one side, then down the other. This puts double the heat in the area of the point and it can melt. You can program in a loop at the end of the point to give the point area a little time to cool before going down the second side.
Dry air is a wonderful thing, but putting so many filters in the line that you restrict flow can be counterproductive.
Tips are engineered to function best at rated current . Cutting at 30 amps with a 60 amp tip will usually work, but the orifice is too big for the current. This means the arc will be poorly formed and not as precise as it could be. Result will be larger kerf, slower cutting speed and the arc can wander, giving you less precision and shorter tip life.
I get best results on 16 ga using 40 amps or less.
Use the cut charts in the Owner's Manual as a baseline. If you find you need to make adjustments, adjust speed. I prefer to use the shielded parts on thin metal. This will keep the tip from contacting the metal if it bows upward although an AVHC that functions well will take care of that issue also.
http://www.victortechnologies.com/Victo ... ibrary.php
A smaller tip gives you a smaller kerf. Kerf is approx 1.5 X the orifice size when using the proper cut parameters. Remember that the slower you cut, the more heat you will put into the plate. This is obvious when you cut 2 lines close together, say the point of a star. You go up one side, then down the other. This puts double the heat in the area of the point and it can melt. You can program in a loop at the end of the point to give the point area a little time to cool before going down the second side.
Dry air is a wonderful thing, but putting so many filters in the line that you restrict flow can be counterproductive.
Tips are engineered to function best at rated current . Cutting at 30 amps with a 60 amp tip will usually work, but the orifice is too big for the current. This means the arc will be poorly formed and not as precise as it could be. Result will be larger kerf, slower cutting speed and the arc can wander, giving you less precision and shorter tip life.
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VERSIUS
- 1/2 Star Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:13 am
Re: Different types of nozzles and what should I use?
Thank you both for the information. I did just download the manual and found the baselines I had been looking for. I had a printed out copy of the manual that had come with the system (which I bought used) and, for some reason, those pages had been removed; I didn't realize they were missing. Again, I really appreciate the help.
