New torch for 1000

[RobertM]

I have a power ax 1000 installed on a Plasmacam 4x4 table. I have heard Jim Colt speak of 45 amp consumables but I have yet to find them. I have 40, 60, and fine cuts that I've used with pretty good success but my original intent was to use this table for my off road projects not as an income producing part of my shop. Well, people are finding out about it and now it seems that it is a profit center. I'd really like to increase the quality and accuracy of the work I am doing without the hell of cleaning dross. I see Jim's work and it appears to me that I can accomplish this but I need to use what works.

My question is, do I have to upgrade to the new style torch? If so, does anyone know where I can get a good price. I got a quote for $750.00.

[tnbndr]

That doesn't sound too bad. I was quoted $700 for a machine torch for my PowerMax 45.

[jimcolt]

Since you don't show pictures or describe what kind of cut quality issues you are experiencing with the Powermax 1000...or what your expectations are....it is difficult for me to tell you if the newer technology Duramax torch will address your issues...or not.

The Powermax1000, operated at the correct power level (it has available FineCut consumables, 40 and 60 amp shielded consumables) the correct pierce height, cut height and cut speed will produce some very nice , virtually dross free cuts on gauge materials up through about 1/2". These are air plasma systems....and will not produce 100% dross free cuts (you can achieve that with a $30k high definition class plasma) but dialed in correctly will produce dvery repeatable cut quality suitable for the majority of applications.

That being said, the newer technology Duramax torch upgrade (same torch as used on the newer Powermax65, 85 and 105 plasma systems) uses technology that was not yet developed when your Powermax1000 torch was designed....and does produce more consistent edge quality as well as longer consyumable life. It sounds like you have already researched a bit.....and the price sounds about right (although there are a few different lead lengths...so I cannot pinpoint the price)

If you can post pictures and descriptions of cut quality issues you are experiencing...I'd be happy to help you dial in the cut quality as good as it can be. Also....let me know which PlasmaCam model and software you are using.


Best regards, Jim Colt

I have a power ax 1000 installed on a Plasmacam 4x4 table. I have heard Jim Colt speak of 45 amp consumables but I have yet to find them. I have 40, 60, and fine cuts that I've used with pretty good success but my original intent was to use this table for my off road projects not as an income producing part of my shop. Well, people are finding out about it and now it seems that it is a profit center. I'd really like to increase the quality and accuracy of the work I am doing without the hell of cleaning dross. I see Jim's work and it appears to me that I can accomplish this but I need to use what works.

My question is, do I have to upgrade to the new style torch? If so, does anyone know where I can get a good price. I got a quote for $750.00.

[RobertM]

Here are some pics of the job. As you can see the edge looks pretty good. The dross on top and bottom were not difficult to remove, just time consuming.

Plasmacam DHC

Pierce height .150
Pierce delay 1 sec per book
Arc voltage started at 1.49 but I had to put it at 1.30 to stay at .06 cut height
Cut speed 48 on perimeter and oval. 29 on .312 hole
DHC on
Air drier attached to compressor. My CNC equipment cannot have water either.
Air pressure set at 75 psi ( I tried higher and lower)
40 amp ( nozzle looks overheated )
Shielded

This was a 350 PC cut job. I am currently quoting 500 pcs.

[RobertM]

I forgot to mention that when the small hole pierced it would leave a pile of shmegma on top that the tip would dive on as it was moving to the cut height. I lost several parts to this. I was able to remove the shield, knock off the spooge and continue with the same consumables but the fact that this happened on every single hole meant that I needed to stay close by.

The tip only plugged about 4 times from the plunge onto the top dross puddle created by the pierce of the little hole.

[RobertM]

I forgot another detail. I had the amps set to 45 because the cut did not go through at 40. These parts had to be knocked out. Very few of them fell out. They didn't take a lot of effort but i would like to cut through and not have the drool on the bottom. When I did the job the first time I used 60 amp and every one dropped.

[jimcolt]

OK...thanks for the explanation and pics....other than the fact that you don't mention the material thickness (although you are using specs for 1/4" steel....so that is what I'll assume!) you have covered everything.

- Your nozzle looks normal. The plasma arc that passes through the orifice is between 25,000 and 40,000 degrees F., so the heat discoloration is normal. The thing you want to watch is the orifice on the nozzle....look at it periodically through an eye loupe (10x magnifier) to check for notches , nicks or out of round, all of which will affect cut quality.

- Your cut speeds look good, assuming this is 1/4". Holes under 1" should be cut at about 60% of optimum speed. On the contour speed.....since there is bottom dross (which indicates low speed) you may want to increase the speed maybe 5 ipm per try until the dross minimizes. Higher speed equals less dross.

-Parts not dropping out. It looks like you are not finishing the end of the cut. The plasma cam software has a "leave gap at end of loop" function.....if there is a number there the software shuts the arc off before finishing the cut. Make sure this is set to "0". There may be other things in your part program affecting this as well....I would have to see it. You could send me your .pcm file for the part and I could look at it on my computer. This causes the big divot on the cutout and the out of round on the hole. jim.colt@hypertherm.com That plasmacam function is designed to make the parts stay in the skeleton....so they do not drop down in the table.

- The top dross indicates that the torch is too high off the workpiece during steady state cutting. You said you were at .060"....but it does not look like it. Too high causes top dross. You may want to use a slightly lower pierce height....I pierce 1/4" at .120"...this allows the z axis to index down to cut height quicker....likely will improve your hole quality.

-The pierce slag pile can be eliminated by spraying a mig welding anti spatter spray on the top of the plate. I buy it in a gallon container and keep it next to the machine in a spray bottle. This same anti spatter sprayed on the bottom of the plate will minimize bottom dross as well.

Always use your consumables at the rated amperage for best cut quality and life. The 40 amp nozzle produces the best energy density at 40 amps. Lower amperage and you will get beveled edges and dross, higher and you will get shorter life. I think if you increase speed slightly you will minimize bottom dross, reduce the height (during the cut, not the pierce) you will minimize top dross and square up the edge a bit. Try the anti spatter spray....it is available at weld supply houses in an aerosal can.

The Duramax torch will cut better....but you have not dialed your Powermax1000 torch to its best capability yet!

Keep us posted! Jim Colt Hypertherm

Here are some pics of the job. As you can see the edge looks pretty good. The dross on top and bottom were not difficult to remove, just time consuming.

Plasmacam DHC

Pierce height .150
Pierce delay 1 sec per book
Arc voltage started at 1.49 but I had to put it at 1.30 to stay at .06 cut height
Cut speed 48 on perimeter and oval. 29 on .312 hole
DHC on
Air drier attached to compressor. My CNC equipment cannot have water either.
Air pressure set at 75 psi ( I tried higher and lower)
40 amp ( nozzle looks overheated )
Shielded

This was a 350 PC cut job. I am currently quoting 500 pcs.

[RobertM]

Thanks Jim... You are correct in assuming .25 thk. I can't believe I left that out. The part shown was a part from a plugged nozzle. The rest of the parts had a scallop at the start and stop but not to the degree that this one did. When I cut the next batch I'll post a pic. I have a couple more questions in regards to this job.

1) when you put the shield on the tip the actual cutting tip is recessed inward. I have the tip of the shield set to 1/16. Should I measure the recess and compensate? If so the shield would be pretty close to the material.

2) if I increase the arc voltage the tip goes up. 1.30 seemed to keep the shield tip at about 1/16. If I drop the voltage to drop the tip and drop the amps to 40 do I need to slow down to cut through?

3) you have mentioned fine cut nozzles somewhere in the forum. I have been using fine cut for material at or below 1/8. I really like the fine cut consumables. Can they cut 1/4 effectively and economically? If so, can you suggest the proper parts for accomplishing this? I believe I read that you use a shield. I have not.

4) attached are pictures of two nozzles. I ordered fine cut and got a different version this time. What is the difference?

[RobertM]

The top nozzle in the last post is the one I'm familiar with. Attached is a picture of how I have it setup typically. I guess that I'm using a shielded version without the shield.

[RobertM]

In trying new things I bought the attached nozzle and would like to know what would the application be for this nozzle?

[Largemouthlou]

The 220006 nozzel looks like an unshielded consumable and not a FC tip. Also looks like your using the wrong shield for the fine cut tips..

[trucks1948]

On hypertherm's web site they have pictures and numbers for compatible consumables.Also on the top cover of my powermax 1000 it has the same diagram.

[jimcolt]

1. The torch height listed in the Hypertherm cut charts is from the lowest part of the torch to the surface of the plate. If you are using shielded consumables...then it is from the shield to the plate. With unshielded consumables...it is from the nozzle to the plate. You keep mentioning the "tip".....there is not a part called a tip in a Hypertherm torch!

2. The physical height or the torch is proportional to arc voltage. Higher height = higher voltage....that is the basic design premise of the height control system. It is affected by speed....so if you have the voltage set at a particular voltage.....and you decide to slow down the cut speed....expect the torch to get closer to the plate. If you increase the speed at a fixed voltage....expect the torch to rise. If you change the voltage however....to adjust the cut height....there is no need to adjust speed. If you change speed though....you will have to adjust voltage in order to keep the correct physical cut height....which is important to control cut edge angularity.

3. Fine cut parts work best in the cut thickness range suggested in the cut chart in your operators manual.....and that is for 10 gauge (.135") and thinner. They will probably cut 1/4" with extremely short nozzle life. For mechanized cutting with your Powermax1000....I suggest the use of the 220404 shield with the Fine Cut consumables as it extends slightly below the nozzle....which allows for better nozzle life.

4. The 220329 nozzle is a FineCut nozzle (as it says on the package). The 220006 nozzle is a non shielded standard 40 amp nozzle. The fine cut is designed to produce squarer cut edges on materials thinner than 10 gauge, the unshielded nozzle is basically old technology that was superceded by the 40 amp shielded consumables. The shielded consumables produce better cut quality and dramatically longer life than non shielded. I suggest using the Fine Cut parts (with the 220404 shield) and the 40 amp and 60 amp shielded consumables for all of your cutting. We still offer the non shielded parts for certain hand cutting applications on 3 dimensional cutting applications (robotic and hand) that need a little better accessibility.

Your operators manual has many pages of suggested cut parameters....with the consumables pictured at the top of the page. There also are consumables pictured and listed on the Hypertherm web pages. I will try to attach a chart of available consumables for the 1000....although I am having trouble posting pics to this site.

Jim Colt

Thanks Jim... You are correct in assuming .25 thk. I can't believe I left that out. The part shown was a part from a plugged nozzle. The rest of the parts had a scallop at the start and stop but not to the degree that this one did. When I cut the next batch I'll post a pic. I have a couple more questions in regards to this job.

1) when you put the shield on the tip the actual cutting tip is recessed inward. I have the tip of the shield set to 1/16. Should I measure the recess and compensate? If so the shield would be pretty close to the material.

2) if I increase the arc voltage the tip goes up. 1.30 seemed to keep the shield tip at about 1/16. If I drop the voltage to drop the tip and drop the amps to 40 do I need to slow down to cut through?

3) you have mentioned fine cut nozzles somewhere in the forum. I have been using fine cut for material at or below 1/8. I really like the fine cut consumables. Can they cut 1/4 effectively and economically? If so, can you suggest the proper parts for accomplishing this? I believe I read that you use a shield. I have not.

4) attached are pictures of two nozzles. I ordered fine cut and got a different version this time. What is the difference?

[jimcolt]

The pictured nozzle is an unshielded 60 amp nozzle (like the unshielded 40 amp nozzle I mentioned previously. Older technology that is still occasionally used for hand cutting and robotic cutting where the torch neeeds to get into tight positions. It does not cut as well nor last nearly as long as the shielded consumables.

Jim

In trying new things I bought the attached nozzle and would like to know what would the application be for this nozzle?

[RobertM]

Thanks, I appreciate the replies. I'll post results on my next run.