Hi all.
I'm looking for ideas how to zero out a press brake die bed. I have a Baileigh 14013. The op manual is of no use for zeroing or removing crown to a point of zero.
I have an order for some stair pans and I have a crowning issue that needs resolved before I can brake these without problems.
My thought is to remove the punch as well, then zero the die bed to the ram. Then mate the punch to the die bed etc. Is that along the line of thought that would work at all for this?
Thank you.
How to zero a press brake die bed?
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
There is a procedure in my Amada manual. Not sure it will help!
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/15785 ... 50-12.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/15785 ... 50-12.html
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
I have a digital readout on my press brake which I use for repeatable bends and to calibrate "zero". Perhaps show some photos of your brake along with the "crowning" so we can see exactly what you are talking about.Deezl Smoke wrote: ↑Mon Dec 21, 2020 10:37 pm Hi all.
I'm looking for ideas how to zero out a press brake die bed. I have a Baileigh 14013. The op manual is of no use for zeroing or removing crown to a point of zero.
I have an order for some stair pans and I have a crowning issue that needs resolved before I can brake these without problems.
My thought is to remove the punch as well, then zero the die bed to the ram. Then mate the punch to the die bed etc. Is that along the line of thought that would work at all for this?
Thank you.
David
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
That's a good idea. I took the die off of the bed and will possibly be taking the punch and holders off of the ram so I can run a dial indicator along the die bed and ram, but that still will not tell which side has the issues. I do have a harbor freight laser on a tripod that I may set up and see if I can use the laser to proof the ram as true, then zero the die bed to the ram. But it is a brand new brake. But,.....imported from.................China, so I best not assume anything without some way to proof at least the ram's true aspects.
The punch and die of course are the lower end planer tools, not precision ground. But even planer tooling is fine if the die bed and ram are in good shape.
Thank you.
The punch and die of course are the lower end planer tools, not precision ground. But even planer tooling is fine if the die bed and ram are in good shape.
Thank you.
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
Thank you for the manual copy. I learned a few new things paging through it. The Baileigh manual leaves a bit to be desired in the set up aspect.Rodw wrote: ↑Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:19 am There is a procedure in my Amada manual. Not sure it will help!
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/15785 ... 50-12.html
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
Not sure this will help but I remove the aluminum shims from under my bed first. LOL sorry
6’x12’ Dynatorch powermax 85
12’ Wysong brake
5’x 5/16’ wysong rolls
3.8’x10’ shear
65 Ton ironworker
Boss laser 3655 150 watt CO2.
SFX 100watt Mopa
Quicncy 7.5hp
Square wave tig, Multimatics, Miller bobcat efi.
12’ Wysong brake
5’x 5/16’ wysong rolls
3.8’x10’ shear
65 Ton ironworker
Boss laser 3655 150 watt CO2.
SFX 100watt Mopa
Quicncy 7.5hp
Square wave tig, Multimatics, Miller bobcat efi.
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
Yes - it is important to level the bed side to side, in and out, and so that it is perpendicular to the ram. Some photo of your setup and parts showing the problems would be helpful in diagnosing your problemDeezl Smoke wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 8:53 am That's a good idea. I took the die off of the bed and will possibly be taking the punch and holders off of the ram so I can run a dial indicator along the die bed and ram, but that still will not tell which side has the issues. I do have a harbor freight laser on a tripod that I may set up and see if I can use the laser to proof the ram as true, then zero the die bed to the ram. But it is a brand new brake. But,.....imported from.................China, so I best not assume anything without some way to proof at least the ram's true aspects.
The punch and die of course are the lower end planer tools, not precision ground. But even planer tooling is fine if the die bed and ram are in good shape.
Thank you.
David
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
Ok, I have a couple pics and will see if I can get them here somehow.
I finally have it to what "I believe" is acceptable. At least for the time being.
I ended up disassembling the die bed and using the straight edge I have on hand, though I have a better one on the way, and spent a few hours going back and forth across the bed adjusting to find as flat as I had the ability and tools to do so. I also brought a flat file with me to remove any tiny foreign material embedded or other surface protrusions.
Once I was mostly satisfied with the die bed, I started in on the ram. I put the die back on the bed and lowered the ram so the punch would rest on the die and loosened all the upper clamps and wedges. Backed all of the wedges out, then lifted the ram slightly and lowered it back onto the die so the punch just made contact across the full length of the machine. I then tapped the wedges in to a light seating and tightened all clamp bolts.
Right or wrong I do not know. But it makes a pretty good bend now for the planer tooling that was included with the purchase.
Prior to these adjustments, the left side of the ram would physically deform or flex enough to visually see it, when trying to bottom the punch into the die. The die bed crowning adjustment now is nearing the limit on the left side, though I doubt you can see .020" in the pictures. The punch wedges on the left also had some issue, but also a few wedges over the rest of the punch ended up in a different spot than they started.
I realize this is an import brake and I do not expect it to perform like a half million dollar precision domestic. But during the correspondence making the purchase, I was told the brake was in the shop for "PDI". I seriously doubt there was any, even considering that the brake had to be shipped half way across the county. The shipping grease was all still fully intact.
I finally have it to what "I believe" is acceptable. At least for the time being.
I ended up disassembling the die bed and using the straight edge I have on hand, though I have a better one on the way, and spent a few hours going back and forth across the bed adjusting to find as flat as I had the ability and tools to do so. I also brought a flat file with me to remove any tiny foreign material embedded or other surface protrusions.
Once I was mostly satisfied with the die bed, I started in on the ram. I put the die back on the bed and lowered the ram so the punch would rest on the die and loosened all the upper clamps and wedges. Backed all of the wedges out, then lifted the ram slightly and lowered it back onto the die so the punch just made contact across the full length of the machine. I then tapped the wedges in to a light seating and tightened all clamp bolts.
Right or wrong I do not know. But it makes a pretty good bend now for the planer tooling that was included with the purchase.
Prior to these adjustments, the left side of the ram would physically deform or flex enough to visually see it, when trying to bottom the punch into the die. The die bed crowning adjustment now is nearing the limit on the left side, though I doubt you can see .020" in the pictures. The punch wedges on the left also had some issue, but also a few wedges over the rest of the punch ended up in a different spot than they started.
I realize this is an import brake and I do not expect it to perform like a half million dollar precision domestic. But during the correspondence making the purchase, I was told the brake was in the shop for "PDI". I seriously doubt there was any, even considering that the brake had to be shipped half way across the county. The shipping grease was all still fully intact.
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
So at this point the question is whether the bed is truly flat end to end. Is the 0.020" gap between the top plate on the bed and the lower plate, or is the 0.020" measurement achieved using a straight edge positioned end to end on the top of the bed?
David
David
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Re: How to zero a press brake die bed?
The .020" is the "crowning" gap between the die plate and frame bed. I know the die is not sitting on a perfectly straight and flat plate, but it is much closer than it was before the adjustments. Next is to make an attempt at squaring the back gauge rack to the punch.
In some ways I wish I were closer to an area that has more brake shops so I could see about renting or borrowing a true and expensive straight edge, but then why would they borrow it out. I just can't afford one now, nor would I have enough use for it to own it. What would be a useful length straight edge for a 13' brake? 60"?